On a mission to find adventure hotspots in Port Macquarie, Paul Rodger launches a one-man assault by land, air and sea

Taxes and death are said to be the great certainties. But when you’re strapped into a petrol-powered aircraft no bigger than a bathtub, another one becomes apparent: gravity. It can bring you back to earth with a bump … or in a fiery nosedive.

But what was I worrying about? I was about to take to the skies in one of the safest forms of flight there is. So said Midcoast Microlights’ owner and pilot, Mark White, who was about to show me a bird’s eye view of Port Macquarie on the NSW mid north coast. He seemed convincing enough, and besides, I could hardly pass up an opportunity like this.

I was in town to test Port Macquarie’s credentials as a destination for thrill seekers and adrenaline junkies. I’d look a wimp if I baulked at my first test.

I pondered my mortality as I squirmed in the back seat of the microlight and we trundled towards the dirt-track runway. A brief pause, a nod from Mark and we were set for take-off.

My heartbeat rose in time with the engine’s revs as we picked up speed, then the wheels were no longer touching the bumpy ground and we were aloft.

In seconds we were a couple of hundred metres above the tea tree plantation below. This thing climbs fast, I thought, forgetting all about tubs and fireballs.

Mark pushed on the microlight’s wing, causing it to bank and point us towards coast. It had been a clear, brisk day, and with the afternoon ebbing away, the sun cast slanted shadows over the countryside and brought a warm glow to the beach and ocean ahead of us.

As we soared over Hastings River and past the Sundowner Breakwall Tourist Park towards open water, I peered down. People were making the most of the day’s last rays of sunshine. A game of football was underway in Port Macquarie Park and keen surfers were catching their last waves off Oxley’s Beach. I snapped away with my camera, but I knew the shots would pale beside what I was seeing with my own eyes.

As we headed back to the landing strip, Mark decided to shake things up a bit. He brought the microlight down so low we skimmed over fence lines and bounded over trees, increasing the sensation of speed. As he lifted the microlight into another rapid ascent, my stomach lurched and I gripped the seat. It was too much fun.

Back on terra firma, I unhooked my harness and became aware, for the first time, of the windburn on my face. It was worth it. I wondered what I would need to do to qualify for a microlight licence.

The following day I caught up with Corey, whose company Soul Surfing offers surfing lessons and the chance to find Port Macquarie’s best surfing spots. He knows the area (and the local conditions) well and can tailor a day’s activities for novices and experts alike.

It was a cold weekend so I passed on a lesson, but Corey did take me on an exhilarating 4WD tour to see some of his favourite haunts.

He also enlightened me about a new craze called stand-up paddling. It involves a very large, wide and thick surfboard, which you stand on and paddle like a canoe. It’s something Corey is thinking about introducing to his suite of surfing adventures.

Having refused to get my hair wet, I was determined to end my weekend on a high note. And not just any old high, a 54m cliffhanger!

Sam Dalton is well known in the area for his love of the outdoors and the enthusiasm he brings to his adventures. His company Edge Experience runs everything from mountain biking tours to bass fishing excursions.

We were there to abseil. The Edge Experience course is a 20-minute drive south of Port on North Brother Mountain, chosen because it lets participants try four abseils in progressive stages, from a 2m nursery boulder through to ‘big daddy’.  

The first two abseils were a push over, but when it came time to lower myself over the more precipitous drops, my stomach began to churn. By this point in the day, however, Sam had drilled us in the safety procedures and proper techniques well enough that they too became surmountable challenges.

The group agreed it would be hard to find a more knowledgeable guide than Sam. Between preparing the ropes for our next abseil, he expounded on everything from the region’s cultural history to the bush tucker and biodiversity of the national park.

He also managed to get a certain vertigo sufferer in our group (okay, it was my wife) to confront her fears and tackle all but the highest abseil.

Packing up the harnesses and helmets, I knew my adventure weekend had come to an end. I had just enough time to squeeze in a relaxing visit to Port’s Koala Hospital before day’s end.

When I got there, I learned that a wild male koala, aptly named Randy, had recently scaled the walls of the hospital’s open-air compound and had his way with one of the convalescing females before effecting a miraculous escape.

So while Port Macquarie is known for relaxing holidays, it does have adventure. You just need to know where to look.

Open Road November/December 2008